Sandra's Garden

Tomatoes !

 

 

Why I wonder is a tomato round and red?

Because if it was long and green -

It would be a cucumber instead! Anon 

 

Rather than wax lyrical about romantic, aromatic and beautifully designed gardens, for a change I thought I would practical and this month discuss tomatoes.

 

Most people eat them after all, and indeed they are the most widely grown of all vegetables – but actually they are not a vegetable, but a fruit! 

 

If you know your plant history, you’re are probably aware that they originated from South America where brought from, to Europe by the Spanish Conquistadors.  Earlier still though it is believed that they were known in Europe, including the U.K. It is possible, that they may have been brought there by Jesuit priests who had brought them to Italy from Mexico.  In the 16th century they were thought to be unsafe to eat due to their bright red colour (they are too, related to the family Solanaceae, of which Deadly Nightshade is also a member!) 

 

They were more popularly grown at that time as ornamental plants.Tomatoes are a very close relation to the potato and for the adventurous amongst us, you could try your skill at grafting.  Graft a young tomato plant onto one of the stems of a potato plant and you will find that it is possible to get potatoes underground and tomatoes above!

 

As you know tomatoes are such useful plants, the fruit of which can be harvested and dried, or frozen or bottled etc., etc., for use throughout the year.  I myself have only just finished cooking with frozen tomatoes from last year.  So there really doesn’t have to be any waste after you have eaten your fill and given lots away to family and friends.

 

There is an excellent British seed merchant who can be contacted via the internet who supplies a wonderful selection of different types of tomato seeds, e.g.:-

 

Indeterminate or Upright or Cordon - these require staking and pinching out (pruning).

 

Determinate or Bush - require little or no staking and pruning is minimal

 

Beefsteak Tomatoes - the largest tomatoes of all, great if you need to slice them.

 

Cherry Tomatoes - the smallest tomatoes. Great for salads or just eating on their own because of their sweetness.

 

Plum Tomatoes - high in juice, low in pulp, they cook exceptionally well

 

Hybrid F1 - seeds whose known immediate parents have been selected for specific qualities.

 

Please email me if you would like their address. Tomatoes come in all different manner of tastes, sizes and colours and even some of the old-fashioned varieties that have the best flavours are becoming more readily available, and the largest, such as the beefsteak tomatoes, can weigh up to 450gm/1lb each whilst the smallest are not much bigger than grapes!

 

However, don’t worry if you can’t go to this trouble, you can pick up small plants to grown on, from many garden centres here. If you do grow them from seed, when large enough to handle prick out into individual pots. This really is the preferred option if you have the time.  Two or three weeks before planting, dig the soil over and incorporate as much organic matter as possible. The aim is to make the soil able to retain the moisture needed so much by tomatoes. When they have developed into strong little plants, they can be transferred into grow-bags, large pots – if these are terracotta, it’s a good idea to line them with polythene to help with the water retention - or a garden border, snug amongst your flowers.  The cherry tomatoes can be grown in hanging baskets (so that you can pick one as you walk past and eat it immediately!!).

 

If you are growing Upright or Cordon plants (see above) you will need to arrange some sort of support and tie them up as they grow.  Don’t forget that tomatoes are sub-tropical plants and therefore require a full sun position, in well drained soil. The British gardeners amongst us will probably remove the side shoots as they appear although I have noticed that our Cypriot neighbours do not bother and tend to grown the plants as small bushes.

 

They will need regular watering and a feed every ten days or so of high potash liquid fertilizer once the fruits begin to swell.  Pinch out the top of the plants when they reach a height that you prefer.  If the fruits hang down onto the soil, you can protect them by placing either a straw mulch or some old newspaper to protect them from the soil.

 

There are a few pests and diseases that can be troublesome, but not enough to deter folk from growing them.  Aphids, whitefly and the Red Spider Mite can be a nuisance and diseases might include tomato blight or leaf mould and scald, but if growing outside with the air around them these should not be a problem at all.  Don’t forget that intermittent watering can create cracked fruit, so make sure the irrigation is working properly!

 

If you would prefer more articles on fruit and vegetables please do let me know, and any questions and/or queries can be answered by contacting me at:-

glorious.gardens@hotmail.com. 

I look forward to hearing from you.

 

Sandra

‘Glorious Gardens’

 

 

As I sat in the shade, what did I spy? 
A weed sproutin’ up, had caught my eye!

 

It’s getting quite hot now isn’t it? Doesn’t seem to deter the weeds in my garden though! It just seems to take twice as long to get rid of them at the moment, so an element of shade in any garden doe’s make the task a little easier.

‘Verticals’ i.e. climbing plants offer many attributes to any garden large or small, even a balcony can accommodate a climbing plant in a pot, and can provide valuable shade so needed in the Summer Mediterranean garden.

Apart from the obvious instant delight of seeing a beautiful rose being supported by a trellis, or clambering it’s way up a tree trunk there are other benefits. Enclosing a small area within your garden, with high walls or hedging, perhaps a courtyard area, creates a space enriched with sensory delights by trapping scents on the calm, warm evening air.

In addition, you will have formed a private area where you can have a quiet meal, or just some space to enjoy a book in a spare hour. By walking past a mellow stone wall dressed with bowers of scented Philadelphus you will not fail to be delighted by the sight and perfume of your climber. What do you see in your mind; it might be your boundary wall that you can see in your imagination, or perhaps a dividing hedge, a picket style fence, a pergola or some trelliswork you erected as a screen.

Anywhere a climbing plant can grow will give you an added dimension to your garden, patio or balcony. A climbing plant will ‘soften’ a wall or fence and when draped deliciously over an archway will produce a lovely division to another ‘garden room’, enticing the visitor to discover what lies beyond.

O.K. I may have stirred your imagination, but now that you have thought about where you could enhance your garden with a scented climbing beauty, what should you plant? There is the obvious Bougainvillea, with it’s vivid, startling colours and strong growth, coupled with it’s total resistance to drought, resistance to both footballs being bounced off it and natural pests, some folk might not be able to resist.

It has an interesting history too, it was first collected in Sough America by the French botanist Philibert Commerson, who accompanied Baron Louis de Bougainville on his circumnavigation of the world in the mid-1700’s. Since then of course, it has found it’s way to almost all the tropical and warm temperate gardens of the world

Pot-Pourri!

What images come to mind when you hear the words ‘pot-pourri? Do you think of shoddy Christmas arrangements that are often still on the reduced shelf in the shops in April, or dried up offerings in the corner of an elderly aunt’s sitting-room? Well forget all that nonsense – think rather of a magnificent mixture of beautiful petals and leaves, with a bright sweet scented presence that just draws visitors towards it when they enter your room. It’s not difficult for you to add such an arrangement to your own home that will last until next year.

 

There is a long-standing tradition of drying scented flowers and aromatic herbs for sweetening the air. There are many historic books from the 17th and 18th centuries which include many recipes for scented powders and ‘perfumes’ as pot-pourri was better known then. Indeed, Mrs. Gaskell when creating ‘Cranford’ wrote, “Rose-leaves….were gathered even as they fell to make into a pot-pourri for someone who had no garden.” Later the term as we know it became more common - in the 19th century we learn that it comes from the name of a Spanish stew olla podrida (meaning literally ‘rotten-pot’), later still the French translation came to mean any medley or mixture.

 

Well where does this leave us? Well you could create a pot-pourri garden, large or just a small corner, or even a few pots which would give you all you need to make your pot-pourri. Perhaps you have some of the plants already and just need a few more to make your collection complete.

 

If you wished to create a small garden of your own, I would envisage a sheltered or enclosed area, square in shape with small beds in each corner, almost triangular in shape but rounded off, this would give you beds in the shape of a quarter of a circle. In the middle, a small circular island bed. In this way you could walk around the little garden and be surrounded by scents of the flowers and herbs. Of course if you didn’t want to go to the trouble of creating a new garden, pots could be arranged in this design, perhaps with a chair or two where you could sit and enjoy the sights, sounds and scents of this little paradise. The plants you will need would include some of the following:- Lavender, Rosemary, Myrtle, Pinks, Coriander, Iris, Rose, Lemon Verbena, Pelargonium (peppermint scented), Pineapple Sage, Chamomile, Thyme, and Jasmine to name just a few. (I have just put to common names here, if you would like the Latin, just send me an email). Once you have your plants established, it is an easy matter to create the pot-pourri which I really believe you will find a really rewarding and creative experience.

 

You will need three cups of dried rose petals, two cups of mixed dried flowers, 15ml of dried lavender, and one cup of mixed dried herbs e.g. mint, marjoram, and thyme. 5ml of cloves 2.5ml ground allspice, 10ml of ground orris root and 5-10 drops of rose essential oil. To dry the plant material, pick everything on a dry day. Spread out on newspaper and leave in a warm, airy place (this must be out of direct sunlight) for 5-7 days, until papery to the touch. To make the pot-pourri, combine all the ingredients, and mix thoroughly then put them in an airtight container. Leave in a dry, warm place for 2-3 weeks, shaking the container occasionally.

 

Your results will be startlingly more beautiful and with a far more pleasant fragrance than anything you could possibly buy in a shop. Enjoy, and if you do create your own personal pot-pourri, please do let me and the other readers know, I would love to hear about your efforts.

 

August – Wine Festivals – Grapes

 

Mmm a natural succession you might think. We village dwellers look forward to our grape festivals with great anticipation. For those of you who have attended such events, you will recall the quiet flurry of work with lorries arriving during the hot sunshine of the morning, with endless tables and chairs which are set out in the Church square. Later in the evening, gridlock in the local lanes when family members arrive from far and wide to meet up with their loved-ones to enjoy the evening of feasting, drinking, music and traditional dancing and large free bags of grapes on each and every one of the tables. Well that’s how it is in Kathikas –come and join us!

I know, I know, you are thinking she has gone off on a tangent again. Well, not quite, there is a link, because I thought it might be useful for you to know a bit about growing your own vine. Do you have a pergola which could be enhanced by the dappled shade created by a grape vine with the added bonus of delicious fruit to be harvested in the height of Summer, or perhaps a raggedy odd corner that with a few carefully placed wires for support could be transported into a secluded arbour? Also as the vine is deciduous, it will not block the sun during the Winter, but do be careful not to plant it near a swimming pool! The vine is quick to grow and will in time grow into an established plant with beautiful gnarled stems.

If such thoughts had occurred to you, but you need a little encouragement and advice, read on.

In warm climates like our own several varieties will thrive such as Golden Muscat, Concord, Fredonia, Delaware and Niagara of which are self-fertile. Yes I know we are in Cyprus, and your garden centre may not be able to give you such choice but make sure you ask for a dessert grape vine and they will be able to help, they should also be able to offer you a seedless variety.

Once you have your vine, don’t worry about the soil particularly as they will thrive on poor soil as long as it is well drained and a sunny site. Plant in Autumn or early Winter and it you have two or more, make sure they are around 5ft apart. You only need to consider feeding, annually with some donkey manure which you should be able to get hold of, if not and growth seems poor, you could feed with some blood, fish and bone-meal at the rate of two handfuls per square metre/yard.

Vines can be grow up against any structure, but if you only have a sunny wall, that will do fine, just as long as you create a post-and-wire support. Depending on your personality, you could just let it do it’s own thing, but you risk it becoming an awful muddle, and not producing the best fruit that it could if trained properly. However it you want to give it the best chance……….. Immediately after planting cut the main shoot back to leave three strong buds. In the first Summer, three shoots will grow up. These should be tied on to the stake. In the Autumn, pinch back the growing point of the main stem. In the second Winter, tie the two strongest shoots to the bottom wire, one either side of the stake. Prune them back to 2ft 6in. Prune the central shoot back to leave three buds. In the second Summer the central shoot will again produce three shoots and these should be tied to the stake. Pinch back any side-shoots which may develop to three leaves. Over the Summer, the shoots which have been tied in horizontally will produce side shoots – these will bear the fruit and should be tied to the wire above. As they grow longer, tie them in to the top wire and pinch off their tips. Pinch back any secondary shoots to one leaf. In the first fruiting year only four bunches of fruit should be allowed to develop, but in subsequent years allow one bunch per shoot to grow. Cut out the fruited shoots after harvesting. The following season, tie two shoots from the central stake to the wires, cut back the middle shoot and start the process again.

The Grape is prone to attacks by wasps and birds, the latter can only really be deterred by netting as they will get used to tricks like silver foil or old c.d’s tied to the vine. Wasps can be a nuisance. You could try a beer trap a bit like the old jam jar trick, covering the jar with polythene with a hole in it and filled with water, once inside, they find it difficult to get out and drown. (Poor things!) Mildew can be a problem too, it this does occur, remove affected leaves immediately, since they will not recover and will spread the disease to the rest of the crop. Mildew is more likely to attack when the soil is dry, so make sure the plants never go short of water. Spray with copper fungicide.

Well I hope I have given you food for thought and possible your tums as well. Do let me know how you get on with your vine, and should you have any thoughts or queries, please do not hesitate to contact:

Neil on 99177553 or email Sandra at Glorious.Gardens@hotmail.com

 

The Christmas Plant ~ The Poinsettia.

When we think of houseplants at this time of year, most of us will think of the Poinsettia, the large plants that we see in the Florist shops or at Christmas Fayres around the town. Indeed they are supposedly the most popular houseplant in the world.

 

Every Christmas season there are millions of pounds/dollars/euros spent on these particular plants. We fill our villas with them perching them on every table or windowsill available. Gives us a lift I think, they are so bright and cheerful looking as the weather deteriorates.

Poinsettias mad their way to the United States by Joel R. Poinsettia, the U.S. ambassador to Mexico. He liked the spiky red desert plant so much he shipped in the first load in 1820.

Today, the plant bears his name and is so popular that in America they even have a National Poinsettia Day (December 12). For most people, there is often no intention of keeping their Christmas keepsakes past January, and the plant ends up in the compost pile or bin. No problem there. Poinsettias are cheap.

If this is you, simply follow the directions below to get the most from your seasonal poinsettias, of which there are about 200 varieties of poinsettias on the market today, including the nearly ubiquitous red (which still account for 90 percent of sales). Additionally, there are speckled, white, pink and even orange varieties. Like bromeliads, the actual flower of a poinsettia is small and insignificant. It's the large bract that gives all the colour. When you're picking and caring for poinsettias, keep the following points in mind:

• Check for broken branches. Poinsettias are naturally brittle plants that break easily in transit. Make sure the branches are intact, with no cracked branches held together by the plant sleeve.

• Check the flowers. The poinsettia's flowers are tiny, yellow flowers in the center of the showy bract. Make sure they're not opened yet so the plant will last longer.

• Avoid greening bracts. If the red or colored portions of the flower bract have begun to turn green, the plant is older and it won't retain its colors as long.

• Count the bracts. You want a compact plant with as many bracts as possible. Some professional growers insist on 8 to 12 bracts for a 6-inch potted plant.

 

• Remove the sleeve. Do not keep your new poinsettia in its planter's sleeve. These are arid, subtropical plants and need good air circulation and excellent drainage to thrive. Sleeves often hold water and promote plant decline.

• Do not over-water. The compost surface should be slightly dry before you water again. However, when you do water, water the plant thoroughly and ensure free drainage. Do not let the compost dry completely.

• No fertilizer during the Christmas season. This will hasten the decline of the flower bracts. They prefer to be a little hungry for a better show.

• Avoid drafty, cold locations. Do not place near windows or doors or under vents where cold air will blow directly on them. Poinsettias prefer warmer air.

• Give them light. Poinsettias prefer bright light during the winter flowering season.

 

However, if you feel that you only plan to keep your poinsettia for a few weeks during the Christmas season, but that it is still a shame to lose a plant, consider: the most common problems experienced by poinsettias are loss of leaves and leaves turning yellow or brown. Yellowing or brown leaves are most likely caused by dry air. Although poinsettias do not like to sit in water, they do like humidity. If your plant begins to look crinkly around the leaf edges, try misting it regularly or setting the pot in a tray filled with pebbles and water to raise the ambient humidity. If your plant wilts suddenly and drops its leaves, there are two probable causes: over-watering or underwater. Soggy soil will result in sudden leaf drop, and allowing the plant to become bone dry will result in decline of the plant. However, if your plant begins to drop healthy, non-wilted leaves, the culprit is probably a cold draft or too little light. Try relocating the plant to a brighter, less drafty location.

 

After the holiday season is over, the plant will begin to gradually lose its leaves in anticipation of a resting period. Move the plant to a cooler, somewhat shadier location. Don't worry about the leaves falling—they're supposed to. Cut the water back, and only water when the soil is dry to the touch. Do not fertilize. If you don't want to let the leaves drop naturally, feel free to cut the plant back hard when you move it to its resting place. Trim the branches to within a few inches of the soil, leaving only a naked stump.

 

However, some brave souls aim to keep the plants and encourage them to bloom again. Beware: this is a dicey proposition that requires a special touch, so if you plan to try it, be prepared to take extraordinary measures. In some warmer, subtropical areas, poinsettias can be transplanted outside in January, where they will Poinsettia grow into their native shrubby form. Although your plant will look dismal, this is natural. The only word of caution is to watch the stems. Stems that shrivel or turn brown are dead. Blooming a poinsettia is wonderful In May, when the temperature outside is consistently 60 degrees or higher, move the plant from its resting place outside. At the same time, repot it into a slightly larger pot. Outside, the poinsettia wants dappled, but not direct, sunlight. For potting soil, use an organic potting mixture. Do not put the plant directly into the ground unless you plan to keep it there permanently Finally, resume watering and feeding normally. You should see the plant begin to grow again. New leaves and shoots will appear. As the summer wears on, selectively prune the plant to preserve three to four main branches. This is the same number professional growers usually aim for. You can use the cuttings to start new poinsettias.

 

By the end of the summer, you should have a healthy, somewhat larger poinsettia than the original plant. Now comes the tricky part. Like many plants, poinsettias set their flowers based on light cycles. To force a poinsettia into a Christmas bloom, you need to provide 12 hours of total darkness every day, beginning in late September or early October. Total darkness means total darkness. Some people move their plants into closets at night, which will only work if there is absolutely no light pollution in the closet. Other people cover their poinsettias with black bags or boxes to shut out the light. During the day, move your plant back to its regular location. However you do it, plan on strictly following this schedule until about mid-November.

 

If you've managed to get the job right, you should see flower bracts forming in the Autumn with colour and growing rapidly. Once the bracts have set and are growing, you can discontinue the dark/light cycle and treat as you would any other poinsettia. This pattern—rest, active growth, dark/light—can be followed for many years with the same plant, and if it's done correctly, it will continuously yield

So…….. I wonder if you will have the same plant during Christmas 2011 as you have in 2010? Give it a try, you have nothing to loose. I hope you found this information interesting, and should you have any thoughts or queries, please do not hesitate to contact Neil on 99117553 or email Sandra at neilandsandra@hotmail.com